Fleur Noire Hotel

Louise Jones Painted the Walls, and the Hotel Followed

Most small Palm Springs hotels reach for the same reference and land somewhere between mid-century revival and desert minimalism. Fleur Noire went looking for a painter instead. Louise Jones covered the walls in florals at a scale that leaves no doubt about the intention, and the property took its cue from there: twenty-one casitas, bungalows and suites, each individually dressed, a clubhouse behind pink doors, planting and fire pits around a pool. The name is not decoration. It is the brief, carried through every room, and it makes this house immediately recognizable in a town with a great many good small hotels.

Why It Works

We kept this address because it commits. A themed hotel that half commits is an awkward thing; this one runs the idea from the murals to the champagne list without apologizing for it, and it holds a place in the MICHELIN Guide’s hotel selection while doing so. The 21-and-over rule is the second reason. Twenty-one rooms around one pool is an intimate arrangement, and it only works if everybody present wants the same afternoon. Breakfast is included, which at this size means something served rather than stacked on a counter, and dogs are accepted, which narrows the list of comparable options considerably.

Why This Location

North Indian Canyon Drive puts you on the edge of downtown, close enough to walk into Palm Springs for dinner and far enough out that the evening is quiet. The San Jacinto mountains rise directly behind the town and fill the view from the pool deck, which is the single best argument for this stretch of desert. The Palm Springs Art Museum and the aerial tramway are both in easy reach, the mid-century architecture the town is famous for is spread across the neighborhoods to the south, and Joshua Tree National Park is the obvious day trip east.

Fast Facts

• Price: Premium

• Vibe: floral, saturated, adult, unhurried

• Rooms: 21 casitas, bungalows and suites, each individually decorated

• Best For: couples, friends on a pool weekend, travelers bringing a dog

• Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: the Louise Jones murals, which turn a room into the reason you came

• Dining: daily breakfast included; La Boisson, a champagne and rosé bar in the clubhouse

• Amenities: pool with cabanas, fire pits, outdoor lounging, 21 and over only, pet-friendly

• Attractions: downtown Palm Springs, the Palm Springs Art Museum, the aerial tramway, the mid-century architecture districts, Joshua Tree National Park

La Boisson, Behind the Pink Doors

The clubhouse bar deals in champagne and rosé and very little else, which is a decision rather than a limitation. It sets the tempo of the property: an afternoon that starts at the pool and drifts inside as the light goes. Breakfast is served daily and included in the rate, so the first decision of the day is already made for you. For anything more substantial, downtown Palm Springs carries the restaurants, and the walk back is short enough to do on foot after dinner.

Twenty-One Rooms, Casitas and Bungalows

Accommodation is split between casitas, bungalows and suites, and the point of the place is that no two are dressed alike. Florals run through all of them at varying intensity, so it is worth looking at what you are booking rather than taking the category on trust. Bungalows suit a longer stay and put you closer to the outdoor space; the suites give room to spread out. Everything faces inward toward the pool and the planting, which is how a hotel of this size keeps a street-side address feeling private.

What to Know Before You Book

Guests must be 21 or over, so this is not an option for a family trip. Check-in opens at three in the afternoon and runs late, which helps with the drive in from Los Angeles. The desert season matters more here than in most places: spring and fall are the sweet spot, high summer is for people who genuinely want the heat, and the pool is the center of the property year-round. Dogs are welcome, so confirm the terms at the time of booking.